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Witloof
3619 St. Denis St.

Open Mon.-Fri. from.11:30 a.m. to 3. p.m.; Mon.Wed. from 5 to 10 p.m.; Thurs,Sat. from 5 to 11 p.m. and Sun. from 5 to 10 p.m. Licensed. Major credit cards. (514) 281-0100.
This Belgian bistro was once more fashionable than it is now. But the food is still remarkable, the service still professionally imperturbable, the decor still sedate Euro-bourgeois, the menu still concise yet full of promise. Appetizers ran from humble herring with potatoes right up to mushrooms and escargots in a thin phyllo-type pastry nest.

Main dishes included tuna in a vivacious citrus-ginger sauce and sweetbreads done with "caramel de Kriek," a reduction of a Belgian-style cherry beer. Portions, the inevitable frites (with mayonnaise!) and the indulgent desserts will have you speculating about the weight of the average Belgian.

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