6934 Clark, Montreal | Tel. 514.277-9859
Washrooms not handicapped accessible
Cold night, last minute decision, 4 people. Family dinner. Dad’s going on 96 and can still eat the rest of us under the table. Where to go? Nothing too fancy, but something that is tasty and will stay with us. Nothing sums this up like Italian.
I haven’t been to Tre Marie since, well, maybe they tore down the walls and enlarged the dining room, perhaps 15 years ago. There’s still one of the original threesome in the restaurant. Rosina Fabrizio is almost 86 and she still puts in over 12 hour days. She was there when I was last there and she may still be there the next time. The menu hasn’t changed much either.
This is where you go for hearty, basic Neapolitan fare: veal parmigana, mussels in a slightly spicy tomato sauce, lasagna with whole eggs, minced veal and layers of noodles. Nothing fancy but as good as what your grandmother would make, assuming she was from Naples. Ask for the chilis – they come in a spicy oil which oozes nicely over the pasta. The dishes are hearty – specials are in the $20 range and include either a very good soup (minestrone or tortellini in a chicken broth) or a small salad and a choice of a few mains including meat and fish dishes. The menu changes daily. The wine list is small with decent bottles of Chianti and Valpolicella in the $30s.
The décor is central casting, circa “Moonstruck”: brick walls, crowded tables, napery on the tables. No matter where you are – the dining room has a few angles - it feels like you are in that slightly smaller section just off the kitchen. Tables are set from two to twenty. There is a feeling that, if you come early as we did, the big party is just about to arrive.
The desserts (tiramisu, cannoli, tartufo, granita) are acceptable but nothing to rave about. Service is good and the espresso is fine, as it should be in Little Italy.
You don’t come here for the fine dining, you come for la famiglia: tasty homestyle cooking, a great welcoming smile, and change in your pocket (and likely a doggie bag) when you leave. – Reviewed by The Flavourguy (Barry Lazar) (Feb/09)
If you'd like to be notified as each new review is posted, click here.
