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Rococo
1650 Lincoln Ave.

Open Mon.-Fri. from 10 a.m. to 10 p.m., Sat. from 1 1 ann. To 10 p.m. Licensed. MasterCard. 938-2121.
The food here, particularly the pastries, is a delight. But the place is small—about 20 chairs and tiny tables if you don't count the weather-dependent chairs outside. The lighting is not bright and conducive to any of the romantic or bohemian antics of Montreal's Hungarian cafes of yesteryear.

What redeems it all is the warm and skilled family that cooks and serves the bargain-priced honest fare. The emphasis is on lightness and fresh flavours. A sausage stew was served with ultra-light and fluffy pinch dumplings. The stew wasn't the hearty, rib-sticking kind but a delicate. tomatoey version containing slices of robust, pale-green banana peppers and extremely thin slices of spicy pork sausage.



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