1812 Sainte-Catherine W Guy-Concordia metro
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Tel. 937-4898. Monday to Saturday, noon to 3 p.m. and 5 p.m. to 10 p.m. Closed Sunday. $50 for two before wine, taxes and service. Table d'hôte: $11$20 (noon); $13.50$20 (evening).
If Le Paris didn't exist, we'd have to invent it. For four decades now, this typical French resto has been offering quintessential Larousse gastronomique fare to ex-pats and the converted. The eggs and mayo are classics, as are the steak and fries. Try the salted cod brandade, a house speciality. Neither the French Regime décor nor the clientele have changed in ages.
Sample menu: Eggs mayonnaise, garlic sausages, cod brandade, headcheese vinaigrette, smoked herring filets, tripes à la mode de Caën, calf liver meunière, grilled blood pudding, poached beurre blanc salmon, île flottante, rice pudding, miroir au chocolat.
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