In the Casino de Montreal, Ile Notre Dame.
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Open Sun.Thur. from 5:30 p.m to 11 p.m., until 11:30 p.m. Fri.-Sat. Licensed. Major credit cards. 392-2708.
Red-wine-coloured Doric columns, soft chairs, lean-over-backward service, tall, viewful windows and a championship wine list, with pricey cooking that overreaches to match the elegant trimmings, and mostly fails.
Stick to the sublime sautéed duck liver or meltingly marinated salmon, to be followed by a reserved portion of excellent meat (like the extra-tender Quebec lamb), leaving plenty of room for the justly famous desserts, and you'll be in an excellent mood for the gaming tables awaiting your purse on the lower floors. Reservations essential.
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