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McDonald's
Everywhere

Various hours. No alcohol, except in Paris. Concorde flight, US$9000
I ended up at a McDonald's yesterday afternoon, around 4 p.m. for lunch (yes, many children were involved in this equation). I decided to be adult (addled?) and ordered an Arch Deluxe, since this was created specifically to lure adults back to the fold. Boy, is this stuff tasteless, no wonder they had to add some ersastz dijon to the "secret sauce" and the lettuce is cut into cute little crinkles so it falls off the burger. Within 30 seconds, no matter how you try to eat this over-sized patty, the eating area is a mess.

It has been several years since I have had a "meal" at a McDough. I was suprised about the fires. Salt is now added to them. This helps maintain the crispness and gives a little more taste, but they are still pretty mealy after the third or fourth bite. I think this is what distinguishes "real" food from fast food of the McD variety. The first bite or two is usually pretty tasty, mainly because you are hungry; after that, taste, substance and overall enjoyment degenerate disporportionately. With good cooking, flavour and enjoyment increase long after the initial appetite drive has been satiated.

The McDeedles folk must understand this. That is one reason the chairs are so damn uncomfortable. I understand the psychology behind this (people sitting around take up space, waste our time and money, etc.) but I also think there is another logic (if people sit around they may realize how lousy the food is, this way we get them out quickly).

Anyway, I sold my soul for a burger and a roll and it wasn't as good as it should. So there. —
Reviewed by Barry Lazar


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