Open Tue.-Fri. from 11:45 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.; Mon.-Sat. from 6 p.m. to 10 p.m. Licensed. Major credit cards. 844-2328.
Solidly entertaining with pricey, tasty. grown-up dining for 25 years, Les Halles still shines brightly with a refreshed decor and a lengthy menu. The prime red meat and live lobster specialties are the backbone of this attractive place, but the real treats await in a $65 (plus taxes, wine and tip) "surprise menu," which allows free rein on the creativity of master chef Dominique Crevoisier.
Quail breasts in salad; crisp shrimps with shrimp mousselines and vermouth sauce; calvados sorbet; venison with Bordelaise sauce; cheese, salad, frilly dessert, excellent coffee; terrific service. Worth every penny. Reservations essential.