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3455 Saint-Laurent Blvd. Saint-Laurent métro. Bus 55
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Tel. 284-3823. Sunday to Wednesday, 6 p.m. to 11 p.m. Thursday to Saturday, 6 p.m. to midnight. $80 for two before wine, taxes and service.
Perched on this rather seedy-looking stretch of the Main, the talented chef David McMillan hides behind his ovens. Just like the neighbouring restos, the waitresses walked out of a beer ad. Just like the neighbouring restos, the walters are probably models. Unlike the neighbouring restos, the food isn't an unfortunate afterthought. Delicious homemade desserts. It's good that the staff is beautiful, and it's beautiful that the staff is good. Valet parking.
Sample menu: Fried Boston squid with lemon-thyme aïoli, spiced beef saisie, Québec foie gras pot-roasted with plum wine, warm marinated octopus salad, arugula frittata with saffron tomato sauce, roasted salmon with corn crust, duck breast roasted in spiced pineapple, roasted leg of calf spiked with garlic, pistachio cake with roasted apple, almond and roasted pineapple crumble, hot semi-bitter chocolate torte.
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