Open Wed.-Sun. from 5:30 p.m. to 11 p.m. Reservations essential. Bring your own wine. No credit cards at time of reviewing. 526-3936
The cuisine of Reunion Island in the Indian Ocean recaps history and sums up geography, and makes this tiny restaurant well worth a visit. Although it's named after a volcano, Le Piton offers food that is lively but not searingly spicy, and that uses genuine ingredients.
Don't miss the assiette creole ($5.50), which combines three distinctive dishes. The limited number of main dishes includes "curries," which are not at all like Indian or East Asian curries but rather are vigorous fish or seafood stews, with seasonings that help, rather than hide, the main taste. Allow $20 per person.