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311 St. Paul East (Old Montreal)
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Monday to Friday, 11:30 a.m. - 2 p.m.; Every day: 5:30 - 10 p.m.Tel.: 878-2232
 L'Epicier (the grocer) is nestled in the quaint part of le Vieux Montreal. Stunningly decorated with walls full of spice jars and nostalgic trinkets, L'Epicier is presently in the capable hands of chef-owner Laurent Godbout.
It has been getting great reviews from various critics, so I was fortunate to have been invited there by a good friend code-named NSG, the no-stomach-guy, since his stomach was entirely removed six weeks ago (he gave me permission to mention this and even suggested the acronym). Taking a guy without a stomach to a gastronomical feast might sound like inviting a eunuch to a bordello, but let me assure you that NSG enjoyed every droplet of Laurent's exquisite sauces.
The menu changes four times per year, so what I write today may not apply when you read this.
 But Laurent's trademark remains — his mathematical approach to his cuisine. Not one ingredient is repeated on the menu: each dish is carefully researched for composition, color and contrast. For example, my main dish, a glazed shoulder of cochonnet (suckling pig) was accompanied by bulgur wheat, which in turn was autumn-colored by beets to make a visual splash ($26).
Godbout has published a book of recipes, "Laurent Godbout" (Les Éditions de l'Homme, October 2003), which confirms his methodical approach to food. No one in Montreal dares to combine tastes like him, and no chef is as creative in the multiplication of flavors and textures. No one experiments as bravely and successfully as him.
As appetizer, I tried the "wild mushroom mousse, foie gras, forum vinegar caramel candy, and empanadas stuffed with Perron cheese aged 3 years" ($12). I am not making this up — this is one supra-gastronomical appetizer that we would like to keep in Montreal and make illegal in the rest of Canada.
 The NSG ordered the "pan-fried Marieville foie gras escalope served as a napoleon with gingerbread, butternut squash purée, shallot compote with dried prunes, duck juice vinaigrette and allspice" ($18). This dish was put together by a civil engineer and arrived as a towering construction. The NSG was not impressed, and demolished it immediately, placing all the ingredients in separate piles, the way his mother had taught him to eat as a kid back in the Czech Republic.
The main dishes we sampled, besides the cochonnet already described earlier, included a vegetarian dish of the day ($19), "roasted salmon cutlets, Asian gremolata, coconut emulsion with chili and sweet potato rösti with Chinese spices" ($24) and "medallion of bison tenderloin" ($33). Normal diners would describe our meal as divine, but they are wrong. It is in fact demonic and devilishly addictive: our two chicks (you didn't think that NSG and I would leave the better sex out of this realm of the senses, did you?) went back for more of Laurent's juices and spreads the next week.
It is difficult to impress diners in such a place with a fine dessert, but that is exactly what Laurent achieved. My Pernod-flavoured frozen parfait came with a spoonful of macerated pineapple bits ($7).
One of the chicks had the medley of four crème brûlées ($8) while NSG, who several weeks ago was still on morphine, experienced a new high with the wonderfully aligned five homemade sherbets ($6).
The service was relaxed and understatedly professional. The staff is clearly proud to be able to work for or under Laurent, as the case may be. Towards the end of our dinner, one of our female companions asked the waiter if she could go to the kitchen "pour embrasser Laurent". Now, here is a French word that defies translation, as "embrasser" means "to hug", but it also means "to hold in your arms", "to kiss", and even "to make out". Our good waiter, possibly to protect Laurent from the fourth definition, pointed out that Laurent had gone home. We will forgive him and Laurent for that.
The bill for four people, including an excellent bottle of Bourgogne, but excluding the tip, was $270, or $90 per stomach. At noon, the table d'hôte with salad or soup can be had for about $24 per person.—Reviewed by RestoSpy
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