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500 Duluth E. Mont-Royal or Sherbrooke métro.
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RESERVATIONS: 848-1716. HOURS: 5 p.m. on. NO-SMOKING SECTION: Yes. WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: No. PRICES—TABLE D’HÔTE: $8.95—$11.95. CREDIT CARDS: Visa, Mastercard, Amex.
Duluth shows us, once again, that the street is in a constant state of flux: although a few restaurants are long-time fixtures here, many others come and go. The newest of these is Les Deux Oliviers (the two olive trees) a poetically named resto which has taken over the premises of L’Amandine.
This is a tiny, chef-run place (he comes from southern France) that needs regular patronage if it is to survive. Here, the accent is on the table d'hôte, and the cuisine is a blend of French and Italian. The decor is simple with white and wood on the walls and deep blue on the ceiling. The lighting is extremely low, almost too low, but the oil paintings of classic Montreal architecture add a whimsical note to the proceedings.
The salade césar is delicious, with a zesty lemon flavour; the osso bucco was tender, prepared in a rich tomato and oil sauce with the succulent meat falling off the bones; the veal in a green pepper sauce was elegant, well sauced, with a complex hint of green pepper at the end of each mouthful. The canneloni stuffed with veal was solid, tasty, but perhaps the most pedestrian dish we tried. Eat too much? They have a little selection of tisanes on the menu—verbena does the trick for us.
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