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À Vos Risques et Plaisirs
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163 Villeneuve E. Laurier métro. BYOB
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RESERVATIONS: 845-0977. HOURS: 6 p.m. on. NO-SMOKING SECTION: No. WHEELCHAIR ACCESS: No. PRICES—TABLE D’HÔTE: $18—$32. CREDIT CARDS: Amex.
À vos risques et plaisirs is another "find" on Villeneuve east, a neighbourhood that is increasingly studded with fine BYOB restaurants (Les Rites Berbères and Le Jardin de Pults are right across the street, and L’Entrepont is just around the corner). It seems the local residential zoning excludes the possibility of a liquor permit—lucky for us wine lovers.
Recently, after a series of ups and downs, the owner of À vos risques decided to add German food to the traditionally French menu. While this has been put into effect with mixed success, it is the only resto of its kind in Montreal.
On the menu: potage du jour, salade tiède aux foles de volaille confits, salade du marché, fricassée de petoncles a l'estragon, noisette d'agneau au romarin et a l'ail, contre-filet de daim aux pommes. The desserts, including an elegant bavarois aux fraises, mousse au chocolat, crème caramel, and tarte Tatin (upside-down, caramelized apple tart), are just lovely.
The decor has not improved much beyond its original cozy kitsch, primarily in light green and burgundy, and could really use a proper face lift.
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